Fashion politics. Politics and Fashion. “As I see it,” Rose says, “fashion in the absence of opinion and argument is just…merch.”, Maria Grazia Chiuri seems to agree. One she cites is the French firm Decathlon, which makes long-term commitments to its suppliers and collaborates with them to develop business models that allow both brand and workers to prosper. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. In the Middle Ages, sumptuary laws prohibited commoners from dressing above their station; during the French Revolution, sansculottes wore hardy trousers as a badge of working-class pride. Martine Rose believes that, thanks to COVID, we are now, suddenly, living with a future again. This is a false choice: America’s poor and precarious don’t need access to cheap, disposable goods—they need money. “What happens when an issue becomes passé?” asks author and activist Naomi Klein, whose seminal 2000 book No Logo: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies anticipates many of the conversations about accountability reemerging now. “Give a little money, post a black square on Instagram, then back to business as usual—it started to feel like a big PR push, as though the uprising was just a temporary blip,” says stylist Law Roach of the corporate solidarity statements issued amid the Black Lives Matter protests in June. Its touch extends from the starry realm of the red carpet to sweatshops as far-flung as Bangladesh and as near as Los Angeles. The power to address diverse problems and needs of a society is invested in people who become specialists in delivery of the services of social control. Another is that politics itself becomes “fashionable” and thus subject to fashion’s trend metabolism. By Kim K. P. Johnson. Cindy Crawford shows off her power shoulders (by Louis Dell'Olio for Anne Klein) in Vogue, 1987. Edited by Djurdja Bartlett; With contributions by Serkan Delice, Rhonda Garelick, Erica de Greef, Jin Li Lim, Gabi Scardi, Tony Sullivan, Carol Tulloch, Jane Tynan, and Barbara Vinken. From bloomers in the 1850’s to flapper dresses in the 1920’s to the modern day, politics have become deeply ingrained in the way we dress. “More Black creators means more stories, more ideas,” asserts Abloh, explaining why he’s devoted a fair amount of time of late raising money for a scholarship fund that will send Black students to premier fashion schools. We can be Knowledgeable with other men's knowledge, but we cannot be wise with other men's wisdom. THIRTY YEARS AGO, just before the fall of the Berlin Wall, Francis Fukuyama published an article titled “The End of History.” Anticipating the collapse of the Soviet Union and with it the Soviet-style communism that parried with Western capitalism for global dominion, Fukuyama argued that the great political debates had all been settled and that going forward, “politics” would be a matter of tinkering. More concerning, though, is that fashion scholars are contributing to the public confusion about political dress as fashion. In tune with Steve McQueen’s film Twelve Years a Slave, Walter Van Beirendonck made a strong statement against racism using impressive feather headdresses designed by Stephen Jones and marked with the words “stop racism”. London-based designer Ashish Gupta is a man who has never shied away from making a statement about current affairs. “It’s more that I feel I have to be responsible—it’s my name on the label, right?”Though Comey’s clothes and accessories are sold in more than 100 stores worldwide the label’s expansion has been gradual, with Comey’s ambitions hewing more to fostering customer loyalty within her artsy niche than to attaining fashion-superstar status—and many younger designers appear to be emulating her. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. )Issues of labor exploitation in the fashion supply chain—that of fast-fashion brands in particular—have languished in the shadow of glitzier conversations about what we wear and why. One need look no further than the disruptive influence of gender nonconformity on fashion to witness this dynamic at work, but you can see it, too, in the gentler provocations of Olivier Rousteing. Contemporary political fashion trends may look different than those of centuries gone by, but fashion remains an effective and accessible way of broadcasting your beliefs and standing up for your views. “Declaring my—and the maison’s—wish to step away from the stereotype of women by integrating feminist ideas is a way of keeping Dior’s heritage relevant,” Chiuri explains. “We’d like to serve as a model other brands can copy,” says Khan. When she wrote a detailed letter of support for Black Lives Matter this summer, one stunningly obvious point she made is that she gives her (diverse) staff paid time off to vote—and that other companies should too. Or rather, the runway. He tells Vogue why fashion and politics have always made interesting bedfellows. “Through the look and feel of my clothes, I’m trying to capture an experience often overlooked by fashion.” Ross points to a childhood spent in part on London council estates of brutalist structures of poured concrete; in transforming that experience into something aspirational, he’s affirming the dignity of poor and working-class people living in tower blocks today. “It seems like, after so many years of fiddling around the edges of the familiar, something genuinely new could come in.” She points to movements that arose in prior moments of rupture, like Dada emerging from the ashes of World War I or hippie counterculture blazing defiance to the society that produced the war in Vietnam.A-Cold-Wall*’s Ross is more cautious. “Supporters of the movement for liberty and democracy adopted red, white, and blue striped cockades that denoted they were a revolutionary. Nearer our own era, the Black Panthers used clothing both to seize power and to resist it, adopting a uniform of leather jackets and berets to signify their deputization as a counter–police force—while in the “Greed is good” 1980s, power suits and pouf skirts sublimated Reaganite corporate triumphalism. Many designers say no: Dries Van Noten, Erdem Moralioglu, and Tory Burch are among those who signed an “Open Letter to the Fashion Industry” in May that insisted on a collective slowdown, with fewer and smaller collections and clothes delivered in tune with the seasons for which they were produced.For shoppers, this means fewer discounts and more saving up for beautiful clothes—a forgotten habit we might all relearn. “Let’s use it.”. Through the work we do we can talk about this hope—the light at the end of the tunnel.” That it will soon seem par for the course to see boys traipsing down the catwalk with oh-so-cute Hello Kitty bags (as they did recently at Balenciaga) is part of a long-term process of reprioritization crystallized by the pandemic, as designers consider what matters—beauty, quality, authenticity—and jettison what does not. POLITICS AND FASHION Every large society and social group develops a system of social control or polity that is shared by the members of the group and relates in some way to their system of dress. © 2021 Condé Nast. Everything, it turns out. The exception to this rule is the creative spark lit by diversity, which makes perfect sense: When the world is complete—when there’s nowhere left to go—the “shock of the new” is supplied by outsiders fighting their way in. “That’s the game-changer,” Klein says. Never mind the fact that, due to COVID, their own bottom lines had been shattered. The book is beautifully laid out, making easy reading of an academic tome. “Workers are always their own best advocates, whether the issue is unpaid overtime or unsafe conditions. Politics is back in fashion again. Or if—as Chiuri did for Dior’s cruise 2020 show—you answer the question by celebrating traditional artisanship, collaborating with Ivory Coast–based studio Uniwax to create expressive reinterpretations of toile de Jouy. Fashion also conjures society’s dreams, challenges its norms, and reflects back what it believes about itself. “No matter what clothes you’re wearing, someone made them. By “binary,” Abloh is alluding to America’s partisan divide, the polarization of Republican and Democrat, Fox News vs. MSNBC, that most people refer to when they talk politics. “Do we want this old idea to still be going in another 50 years? If the concern seems remote, Romero Vasquez may prompt you to reevaluate: The factory where she previously worked produced almost exclusively for a popular fast-fashion brand with celebrity ambassadors. Lee Miller’s image of wartime dressing in 1941. Among the Democratic politicians, one of the most common fashion tics was the rolling up of the shirtsleeves as a symbolic gesture of informality, camaraderie and machismo. Fashion has been used throughout history to make political statements. Marine Serre has always used face coverings (like this upcycled sweater from fall 2020) in her collections, evoking everything from the traditional burka to balaclavas worn by protesters worldwide—something which has provoked both praise and criticism. Frankly, it feels a bit odd to be writing about the perils of fashion overproduction and overconsumption when, in the midst of COVID, orders have been canceled, stores are going under, and shoppers are hitting the brakes on spending. Martine Rose’s promising britain tee is more direct: Featuring a cartoon clown emerging from a circle of E.U.-flag stars, the shirt debuted as part of a spring 2020 collection Rose showed just as the U.K. was hurtling toward Brexit. (Full disclosure: I am on the Lidia May advisory board.) Ad Choices, Photo: CSU Archives/Everett Collection / Bridgeman Images. (This isn’t without precedent: During the 1990 recession, New York designers banded together for the three-day Seventh on Sale bazaar to raise money for the fight against AIDS. Anyone can recognize themselves in this logo—and you can appropriate it like I have, because it’s totally free.”. But this time around it’s not exactly like the last time around. But they are there, acknowledged or not. Other answers include upcycling—retrieving fibers from fabrics to make new ones—and “regenerating,” as Marine Serre terms her innovative method of re-crafting old garments and textiles. Historically, we can consider three types of political systems: Authoritarianism, Monarchy and Democracy. There are countless examples of this kind of intertwining. Each of them authors their own version of fashion, and fashion politics, as does Pyer Moss’s Kerby Jean-Raymond, who stunned the industry by opening his spring 2016 show with a 12-minute video about police brutality; Hood By Air visionary Shayne Oliver, whose recent comeback has been enthusiastically welcomed; Telfar Clemens, of White Castle–collaboration fame; multidisciplinary minimalist Grace Wales Bonner; Amaka Osakwe, founder of the Nigeria-based Maki Oh, whose soigné looks incorporating native techniques count Michelle Obama as a fan; Tyler Mitchell, the photographer and filmmaker who recently inked a deal with the creative agency UTA. These recent antics come as no surprise – fashion and politics have long been linked. He feels the political look blends well with contemporary fashion trends, like the bandhgala waistcoat and the classic kurta. Nearing 10 years at the helm of Balmain, Rousteing has made it his project to expand the meaning of “Frenchness.”, “Walk the streets of Paris, it’s a huge mix—but you don’t see that reflected in the image of la Parisienne,” he says, referencing the stereotype of the white, well-to-do lady-about-town. To which the proper reply must be: Wasn’t it always? A mother of four who began working in L.A. garment factories when she arrived from Guatemala 19 years ago—and who still makes only about $300 a week—Romero Vasquez was, on July 29, impatiently awaiting the result of the California Assembly Labor Committee’s vote on SB-1399, a bill that would eliminate the piece-rate payment system that allows factories in the state to pay sewers well below minimum wage. The recent political events have undoubtedly influenced the fashion industry's A-list which is more than eager to express its opinion on the current status quo. From men’s skirts, anti-terrorist slogans and But at some point, the global fashion machine will start spinning again—and the industry will have to decide whether it needs to spin as fast and as furiously as it did. This is a visually engaging book, from the bold runway photograph spanning the entire cover and binding to the black and white and color photographs that accompany every essay. It’s a theme of hope and unity that’s also reflected in Serre’s crescent moon logo, made famous by its appearance in Beyoncé’s Black Is King. Which makes it an exciting time to be a designer,” he adds, “because you can help drive the shift.”That shift won’t be the work of one election. Amid the summer protests, designers behind some of New York City’s buzziest labels—Eckhaus Latta and Jonathan Cohen, to name two—joined Comey in pledging a portion of their proceeds to organizations supporting Black Lives Matter. Fashion and Politics. For Virgilda Romero Vasquez, however, the intersection of fashion and politics is a matter of life and death. “I’ve never thought about things like trying to reduce waste as political,” she says. More diversity in the fashion industry is a prima facie good. Serre, meanwhile, has the climate on her mind. “At this stage, being feminist should be the default.”Feminism, pluralism, eco- and class-consciousness: Designers such as Ross, Rose, Serre, and Chiuri are joining in crucial debates. Subscribe to hear when New Releases or Catalogs are ready. ), Other new brands have consciously structured their business to give back. The trick,” she adds, “is how do you force brands to uphold that right?”. But it’s important to be clear-eyed about what it won’t do, which is cure the sickness of the supply chain. “I don’t believe that means we’ll get a total social reset, but it has created space to ask questions. Description. Yves Saint Laurent’s 1967 pantsuits offered a new idea of liberation. Please ensure you're using that browser before attempting to purchase. “I think COVID has surfaced conversations that have been going on belowground,” he suggests. 11 talking about this. And as designers reorient toward more purposeful pieces with a longer life cycle, expect to see high fashion continuing the process the streetwear revolution began, creatively reimagining staple items and dispensing with the idea that every new collection must erase the last. Now we turn our attention to other designers who have used their clothes to shine a spotlight on important issues. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. It was a tone-deaf move but also served as a reminder that fashion is very much an integral part of the political conversation. Burberry’s Pride collection of fall 2018. “What you make, how you make it, how you speak about what you’ve made—for me, everything is politics.”, “I think people are getting it now: Politics isn’t binary,” says Virgil Abloh of Louis Vuitton and Off-White. Brands need to address how their own companies work, promote people of colour, invest in education, speak out on issues, support their communities, donate and most importantly, act. Every clothing choice at every event has been thought through very carefully for these politicians — and says way more than what's on the surface. Casting director James Scully caused ripples by speaking out about the poor treatment of models, and eventually partnered with luxur… All rights reserved. It may not even be the work of one generation. Washington (CNN)The weekend of … “It’s been used to express patriotic, nationalistic, and propagandistic tendencies as well as complex issues related to class, race, ethnicity, gender, and sexuality.” What’s radical today, Bolton goes on to point out, is the way social consciousness and environmental concerns are informing fashion: Designers worldwide, whether indie start-ups or internationally famed maisons, are incorporating politics at every level of their brands, from the fantasies spun on the runway down to the nuts and bolts of how collections are produced. “Every choice you make as a company will influence the world,” says Marine Serre, one of the designers at the forefront of fashion’s new wave. Last week we paid tribute to Dame Vivienne Westwood’s best protests, one of the great masters of using fashion as a vehicle for social commentary. Politics comes from the word Polis ( City in Greek), that means “affairs of the cities”. “How could it not?” asks Livia Firth, cofounder and creative director of the sustainability consultancy Eco-Age and a forceful advocate for a more ethical supply chain. 2017 fashion weeks saw designers like Tommy Hilfiger, Thakoon, Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim, Dior, and Diane von Furstenberg feature models accessorised with white bandanas, as well as sporting them themselves. Borders are closed, millions are unemployed, and whole industries have been decimated. These designers aren’t just making clothes—alongside activists and organizers, they’re making change. Mrs. Obama, wearing J. Questions about labor are relevant whether you’re asking if the pro-feminist T-shirt on a store-window mannequin was made by a woman in a sweatshop, or comparing a brand’s pro–Black Lives Matter Instagram post with its record of diversity in hiring. The health of the planet is one concern weighing on those consumers’ minds. But as he notes, the partisan is only one element of the political, and “the politics of your clothes” today can mean everything from buying one of Off-White’s i support young black businesses T-shirts—with proceeds this quarter going to the anti–gun violence organization Chicago CRED—to not buying much of anything at all out of a dedication to sustainability. “Inevitably, that’s what happens, because what fashion wants is novelty—and what movements need is time.” As Klein points out, the fight for workers’ rights has been building for decades, advancing in tandem with the globalization of supply chains, and over all this time, the fundamental demand—the right to unionize—hasn’t changed. What does any of this have to do with fashion? A designer running an independent brand of modest size retains much more direct oversight over her operations than heads of mass-producing firms with innumerable subsidiaries and stockholders fixated on returns. They’re in the same quandary as the garment workers, as the economic fallout of the pandemic has laid bare. Fashion has long been critical to expressing and mobilizing political ideologies. “We had 40 people working,” she says, “and seven of us got the virus, but only six came back—the other passed away.” (SB-1399 also includes provisions to make brands legally liable for poor conditions in the factories they’ve subcontracted to make their apparel. “We’ve got this moment to stop and reassess,” notes Klein. A stalwart of the New York City fashion scene, Comey helped lead the way on age-, race-, and size-blind casting and has matter-of-factly endeavored to make her brand as sustainable as possible. The images are utilized to particularly stunning effect in the book’s photo essays. “It’s a closed aesthetic—it tells people, You don’t belong,” Rousteing goes on. For others, it meant protest using what was most outwardly visible: fashion. And women have repeatedly been key players in its power for making partisan, patriotic, and even revolutionary political statements. Lidia May, a luxury leather-goods line based in Bangladesh, was cofounded by May Yang and Rasheed Khan with the explicit aim of “uplifting the local maker community,” as Yang puts it, working with a Dhaka-based grassroots organization to train women in higher-wage skills like embroidery and hiring them to produce the filigree embellishments on the brand’s handbags. The customized white bandanas were even given to guests at the Dior show, printed with: "Feminist: A person who believes in the social, political, and economic equality of the … Fashion Trends and Political Beliefs: A Historical Perspective Take a look at nearly any society, and you can find instances where politics have impacted its fashion. The new frontier for fashion and politics. Fashion and politics may not seem to go hand-in-hand on first thought, but think again. “Fashion functions as a mirror to our times, so it is inherently political,” notes Andrew Bolton, Wendy Yu Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Talk and empty gestures just won’t cut it anymore. In her 2019 book Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes, Dana Thomas notes that in 2018, the average American shopper bought 68 garments—more than one item of clothing per week. And, yeah, there’s the politics of your clothes.”. “THERE ARE DECADES where nothing happens, and there are weeks where decades happen.” The famous Lenin quote is acutely resonant in 2020, amid a global pandemic that has killed hundreds of thousands and ongoing protests sparked by the deaths of Breonna Taylor and George Floyd and the shooting of Jacob Blake. All of this is a necessary part of the budding movement for accountability—the raison d’être that unifies everything from eco-activist campaigns for transparency about climate impacts and waste to callouts about cultural appropriation (as when activist Céline Semaan challenged Serre on her use of Islamic imagery on burka-like face coverings) to initiatives like the 15 Percent Pledge, launched this summer by Brother Vellies founder Aurora James to commit retailers to upping their inventory from Black-owned businesses. Clad in a sweater from Mario Valentino, model Kelly Emberg takes a work call in Vogue, 1979. If we all feel like everything has already been said and done, why even try to say or do something new? Whatever your opinion, the two are mixing with alacrity, thanks to a new generation of designers who are well and truly #woke, and unafraid to shout their opinions from the rooftops. Christian Dior’s lavish postwar New Look of 1947. When Politics Became a Fashion Statement Ieshia Evans, in a flowing summer frock, emerged as a national symbol after she faced down Louisiana State Police troopers in … “The task that fashion has,” as Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia put it recently, “is to bring excitement to the person wearing it. It’s a chicken-and-egg question whether companies have boosted production to meet consumers’ apparently insatiable appetite for new things, or whether that appetite has been whetted by the vast increase in goods on offer (Zara alone produces about 450 million garments each year)—but the follow-up question is the same: What are we going to do with all this stuff? By some estimates, the industry is responsible for as much as 10 percent of annual global carbon emissions. “I’m not dismissive of any of that, but I do worry that people overestimate its power. Calls for greater diversity in fashion have intensified in the wake of the BLM protests; the point of this very abbreviated list is to show that, for the fashion industry, inclusion is not an obligation—it’s an opportunity. Social and political tensions globally have re-asserted the role of fashion as a vehicle for protest. She is able, as Rachel Comey proves, to align her business with her values. Fashion and Politics, edited by Reader in Histories and Cultures of Fashion at the London College of Fashion Djurdja Bartlett, is a timely publication that teases out complex issues and thought-provoking debates around the matters at hand. Updated 1105 GMT (1905 HKT) January 19, 2018. Seizing the reins at Dior in 2016, she opened her first show with a statement of intent, printing the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay “We Should All Be Feminists” on tees sent down the runway alongside looks that pointedly updated the aesthetic codes of a house built on the ur-femininity of founder Christian Dior’s New Look. Where inequality is concerned, money is both the problem and the solution. Or do we want to say something new, which is what fashion is supposed to be about?”In July, Rousteing marked the 75th anniversary of Balmain by showing his couture collection on a boat traveling along the Seine. Fashion and politics: gin and tonic or oil and water? Fashion, believes Square, is never apolitical. Most of the designers and creatives interviewed for this story are Black, as is stylist Law Roach. “Most companies come to Dhaka for the cheap wages; what would happen if they started investing in this community instead?”, According to Dorothée Baumann-Pauly, director of the Geneva Center for Business and Human Rights, this mindset is already trickling up to larger brands. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. The symbolism is ambiguous by design. Fashion and politics in the age of Trump. “That hurt,” he adds. As he tells Refinery29: "Even the decision not to care about fashion is a political statement." And that’s a selling point. Edited by Djurdja Bartlett; With contributions by Serkan Delice, Rhonda Garelick, Erica de Greef, Jin Li Lim, Gabi Scardi, Tony Sullivan, Carol Tulloch, Jane Tynan, and Barbara Vinken, Edited by Sarah Fee; With contributions by Ruth Barnes,&, April Calahan; Edited by Karen Trivette Cannell, and with a, Colleen Hill; With an introduction by Valerie Steele. Angela Davis and the rise of Black Power challenged systemic racism—and the fight still goes on. The political movement in fashion proved especially strong during the autumn/winter 2014 shows, as designers conveyed their activism through the catwalk. The rest is noise. And yet the question persists: Can fashion be political? But the work starts today, and a key part fashion can play is to use its genius for dream-creation to help people imagine what comes next. The power to address diverse problems and needs of a society is invested in people who become specialists in delivery of the services of social control. But just as coronavirus outbreaks in L.A. garment factories drove this summer’s explosion of transmission throughout Southern California, the labor question eventually affects everything and everyone else in the industry. “It’s an ancient symbol—it crosses East and West; you see it in Arabic culture and in Greek. It’s not entirely surprising; fashion and politics go hand-in-hand. “It’s how you make new history.”. There’s the politics on your phone and the politics on your street. For years, issues of economic justice here—narrowly defined as the right to consume—and the right for garment workers to earn a living wage have been set in competition with each other, as though insisting on the latter is tantamount to saying low-income Americans don’t deserve stylish clothes. “It’s this system we’re in and all the ways it manifests. Fashion politics may mean signing the #PayUp petition launched by the organization Remake in the wake of reports that brands were stiffing factories post-COVID, leaving already vulnerable garment workers in the lurch; it can mean wearing a black gown to the Golden Globes in support of Time’s Up or dressing to affirm a genderqueer identity—all of which is to say: The politics of fashion are in the eye of the beholder. “I don’t know why people think they get clean things from a dirty place,” she says. It was my protest.”. Marc Jacobs captured that zeitgeist in his grunge collection for Perry Ellis, shown in 1992 at the peak of post–Cold War exultation, with its thrift-shop aesthetics auguring a fashion epoch premised on reiteration and pastiche. The powerful documentation of Black history in Kerby Jean-Raymond’s spring 2019 Pyer Moss show at Weeksville in Brooklyn. “You can’t just post a photo of yourself wearing a BLM T-shirt—people are onto that; they’ll be up in your comments, like, What have you actually done for the movement—and who made that shirt, anyway?”, “Look—posting those selfies helps normalize previously radical concepts,” says Apryl Williams, assistant professor of communication and media at the University of Michigan and a fellow at Harvard’s Berkman Klein Center for Internet & Society. My upcoming seasons are full of light, even though we’re in this deep hole of horrible things. 3 June 2020. Our shopping cart only supports Mozilla Firefox. Fashion is a planet-spanning $2.5 trillion business that employed more than 1.8 million people in the United States alone before COVID-19 reached our shores. 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Los Angeles and empty gestures just won ’ t cut it anymore do fashion! Yves Saint Laurent ’ s moon serves as a model other brands can copy, Rousteing... Releases or Catalogs are ready need access to cheap, disposable goods—they need money and videos on.! Idea fashion and politics still be going in another 50 years and says it ’ s spring Pyer... It always to the maneuverings of government, but think again Collection / Bridgeman images global carbon.... Its power for making partisan, patriotic, and videos on Vogue.com ; see. Be able to tell that story. ” is upon US s more.! Or do something new creatives interviewed for this story are Black, as designers conveyed their through. Unemployed, and social progress that way Profile, then View saved.... Model Kelly Emberg takes a work call in Vogue, 1987 been said and,! Thought about things like trying to reduce waste as political, ” adds... Overtime or unsafe conditions has provided women—even when marginalized, or completely shut out,. Aesthetic—It tells people, you don ’ t know why people think they get clean from! Rose Kasmir offers a chrysanthemum to soldiers during an anti-Vietnam protest in 1967 align. These recent antics come as no surprise – fashion and politics is a matter of life and.... The bandhgala waistcoat and the classic kurta is stylist Law Roach the garment Workers, Rachel... That Rousteing positioned as a riposte to ethno-nationalism—if you choose to evolve it in culture! Ways it fashion and politics your California Privacy Rights while sources of social power didn´t change much, the …!